I have been using My Clarins RE-BOOST Mattifying Hydrating Cream since last May, on and off, alternate with other moisturisers that I have bought.
Price: RM 95.00 for 50g
Clarins is a France luxury skincare founded in 1954. It is then distributed internationally to more than 140 countries.
With a double of the price compared to the Muji sensitive skin all-in-one essence in my last post, what we can expect from this product is definitely more riches of plant extracts. In fact, we can say that the price of skin-care products is mainly attributed by their unique formulation, which in term of the sporadic extracts they added, not mentioning the righteous of the concentrations for each ingredient, giving the balance of film-forming, viscosity-controlling, and skin-conditioning feels.
Before we make any purchasing decision, it is important to ask ourselves in mind, that what is the primary function we would like to obtain from a skin-care product. Do you simply want to get pampered by the richness of essential oils/unique scent of natural plant extracts? Or, do you want to achieve a longterm skin-conditioning or any skin-related effects in compensating ageing and environmental stress?
This Clarins RE-BOOST hydrating cream has a total of 44 ingredients. And according the rule of cosmetics labelling, only 8 ingredients are potentially above 1% concentration in this product (i.e. those listed before Phenoxyethanol, which is a preservative with restricted amount up to 1% concentration in a cosmetics). Ingredients less than 1% is normally viewed as less likely giving an effect, but good in providing the additional fragrance, texture, and overall presentation of the product.
With this rule of thumb, we can clearly see that the 'active' ingredient of this Clarin product is the coconut fruit juice, which provides the skin-conditioning effect to the skin. Also, Cetearyl isononanoate and Cetearyl alcohol are two fatty acids derived from coconut oil, giving emollient effect to the skin (emollient helps to soften and soothe the skin, making it look and feel better).
Anyway, we cannot deduct that there are no cumulative effects of those less than 1% concentrations in this product without conducting a proper experimental validation test. But to think the other way round, we could not 100% trust a product with the listed ingredients without knowing the real active activities. Some key questions are needed to assess by scientists are:
a. Can the active ingredient exhibit their effects (anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging etc) in the skin over a consistent application?
b. Has the active ingredient be delivered in sufficient concentrations to achieve the desired effect?
c. What is the biochemical mechanism of the active ingredient act upon the skin?
d. Are the experimental design possess statistically significant to draw the conclusion of the efficacy claims?
These questions are needed to formally inform our consumers, in order to make an informed and wise decision in choosing cosmetics. The science of cosmetics formulation is a specialised subject that requires a lot of researches and validations. The tediousness of cosmetic-making and loosen regulation lead to some shortcut business approaches, that preferable to rely on word-of-mouth strategy. Peer testimonials turn out to be a major and effective marketing strategy in the cosmetics industry, thus it is not surprising to observe a generally increasing trend to boost the consumer buying behaviour by using marketing strategies like direct sale or impact of the influencers.
What's more, many cosmetics ingredient websites are not as reliable as we thought. With the marketing strategy to promote a product without tight regulation, it is easy for the cosmetic companies to make money out of fear-mongering tactic, i.e. by cherry-picking the scientific facts that science-sounding, but without any concrete or significant evidence. Therefore, while we can get a rough idea of what we can expect from the product from the individual function stated by the websites, we should always cross-check and update the safety restriction of certain ingredients announced by the official authorities like the federal governments of US, EU, as well as some independent assessment organisations. This is what I am interested and would explore on in the next blog posts.
Before going any further, let's see what's in each of the ingredients in My Clarins RE-BOOST mattifying hydrating cream, from the websites available in the world wide wed (which might actually over-promoting or scaremongering, I don't know yet!)
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Ingredients* : Aqua/Water/Eau. Cetearyl Isononanoate. Glycerin. Propanediol. Cetearyl Alcohol. Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice. Butylene Glycol. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Phenoxyethanol.
*********below are the ingredients added less than 1% in the product*********
Cetearyl Glucoside. Glyceryl Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate. Propylene Glycol. Xylitylglucoside. Dimethicone. Cellulose. Tapioca Starch. Anhydroxylitol. Ethylhexylglycerin. Parfum/Fragrance. Sodium Polyacrylate. Silica Silylate. Xanthan Gum. Xylitol. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Tartaric Acid. Citric Acid. Glucose. Tamarindus Indica Extract. Spiraea Ulmaria Extract. Marrubium Vulgare Extract. Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract. Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract. Malpighia Emarginata (Acerola) Seed Extract. Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract. Sodium Benzoate. Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract. Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract. Potassium Sorbate. Sorbic Acid. Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract. Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin. Ci 14700/Red 4. [V3148a]
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Details of the characteristics and functions:
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Chemical characteristics: It is an ester form of Pelargonic acid (nonanoic acid, a type of fatty acid with nine carbons), comes from coconut or palm kernel oil.
Functions:
- Emollient
- Skin/hair conditioning
Glycerin
Chemical characteristics: Also a type of glycerol, is a natural compound derived from vegetable oils or animal fats, or made synthetically.
Function:
- A humectant, moisturizing agent. Glycerin has the ability to draw moisture from the air around us and help to keep that moisture in the skin (the meaning of "humectant"). What's more, glycerin is also involved in the transport of aquaporins (from our lower skin) to skin's uppermost layer.
Propanediol (PDO)
Chemical characteristics: PDO is a glycol (C3H8O2) derived from corn or petroleum. It's a chemical similar (same molecular formula but different molecular structures) to propylene glycol (PG, concerns that might irritate eyes and skin), but thought to be safer. PDO is currently approved for use in cosmetics, in restricted amounts, in the US, Canada, and Europe.
Functions:
- Humectant/Moisturiser (low cost), it has hydrating properties that may leave a smooth, dewy finish.
- Emollient, ability to soften and soothe the skin
- Solvent
Cetearyl Alcohol
Chemical characteristics: It is a combination of two fatty acids (total of 34 carbon atoms) made from cetyl alcohol (16 carbon atoms) and stearyl alcohol (18 carbon atoms), normally found in coconut and palm oil.
Functions:
- Emulsifier, mix oil and liquid
- Emollient, make the skin feel smooth, provide a soothing feel to the skin
- Thickening agent, enhance the texture and feel
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice
Chemical characteristics: A liquid expressed from the fruit of Cocos nucifera
Functions:
- Skin-conditioning agent/humectant/emollient
Butylene Glycol
Chemical characteristics: Glycol is a type of alcohol that contains two OH-group, the alcohol groups are attached to different carbons. BG contains 4 carbon atoms and is often made from distilled corn.
Functions:
- Conditioning agent (also called as humectant/moisturizer), i.e. add a layer of softness or improve texture to the skin/hair
- Solvent to form a homogenous mixture, makes other ingredients less likely to stick together, giving skin-care spread out in their desired state for use
- Viscosity-decreasing agent
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acylloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Chemical characteristics: A copolymer of sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers
Functions:
- An emulsifier/stabilizer
- A thickener
- An electrolyte resistance in the pH range 3-12, useful to thicken up low-pH formulas, such as exfoliants
Phenoxyethanol
Chemical characteristics: A glycol ether
Function:
- A preservative
###########Ingredients that less than 1% in the produce###########
Cetearyl Glucoside
Chemical characteristics: A blend of cetearyl alcohol and glucose
Function:
- An emulsifier
Glyceryl Stearate
Chemical characteristics: it is the ester form of glycerin and stearic acid
Function:
- An emulsifier, also as a co-emulsifier which helps to form emulsion by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified
Peg-100 Stearate
Chemical characteristics: A water-soluble ester, combination of natural oils (often palm or coconut) with Stearic Acid.
Function:
- Surfactant, cleansing agent
Propylene Glycol
Chemical characteristics:
Function:
- A humectant
Xylitylglucoside
Chemical characteristics: It's derived from two water-binding plant sugars, xylitol and glucose
Functions:
- A humectant, preventing water loss
Dimethicone
Chemical characteristics: a silicon-based polymer
Functions:
- Anti-foaming agent
- A conditioning agent, prevent water loss by forming a barrier on the skin and easily spread on the skin
Cellulose
Chemical characteristics: A plant cell wall
Functions:
- Thickening agent, other functions: act as an absorbent, bulking agent, viscosity controlling
Tapioca Starch
Chemical characteristics: A starch derived from the roots of the Manihot esculenta (木薯淀粉Cassava) shrub, consists primarily of amylose and amylopectin
Function:
- Thickening agent, texture enhancer, viscosity increasing agent, create gel textures
Anhydroxylitol
Chemical characteristics: A sugar derived from the fermentation of wheat and wood.
Function:
- A humectant, to help skin absorb and retain moisture
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chemical characteristics: An alkyl glyceryl ether, derived from glycerin.
Functions:
- Skin-conditioning agent
- A weak preservative, works by reducing interfacial tension on the cellular walls of microorganisms, promoting rapid destruction. Also, ethylhexylglycerin may enhance the function of other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.
- Also commonly used in many deodorant products, as it inhibits the growth of odor-causing bacteria
*Parfum/Fragrance
Lack of disclosure
Sodium Polyacrylate
Chemical characteristics: A sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. When added into water, it turns into a gel-like substance.
Functions:
- Absorbent, absorb as much as 100 to 1000 times its mass in water; Also, viscosity controlling agent/viscosity increasing agent
- Emulsion stabilizer
- Film-former, also feel more rich, smooth, and creamy
- Skin conditioning agent/emollient
Silica Silylate
Chemical characteristics: A hydrophobic silica derivative, produces a mystifying, silky smooth primer
Functions:
- Anti-foaming agent
- Bulking agent/Thickening agent
- Skin-conditioning agent/emollient
- Anticaking agent
Xanthan Gum
Chemical characteristics: It's a polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of carbohydrate (e.g. glucose or corn syrup) by Xanthomonas campestris bacteria.
Functions:
- A binder
- Emulsion stabiliser
- Skin-conditioning agent
- Surfactant emulsifying agent
- Viscosity increasing agent/Thickening agent
Xylitol
Chemical characteristics: It's a sugar alcohol that may be plant-derived or synthetic
Functions:
- Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Chemical characteristics: A mixed triester of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids, derived from coconut oil and glycerin.
Functions:
- Skin-conditioning agent/Emollient
Tartaric Acid
Chemical characteristics: It's a crystalline organic acid found in many plants, including grapes and tamarinds.
Functions:
- Used as a pH adjuster
Citric Acid
Chemical characteristics: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from citrus fruits
Functions:
- As a pH adjuster
- Only with a higher concentration (20%, for example) to see the skin-exfoliating effect.
Glucose
Chemical characteristics: A sugar obtained from the hydrolysis of starch
Functions:
- Humectant/skin-conditioning agent
Tamarindus Indica (Tamarind 酸豆)Extract,
Spiraea ulmaria (Meadowsweet 旋果蚊子草) Extract,
Marrubium Vulgare (white horehound苦薄荷) Extract,
Lycium Barbarum （goji berry枸杞）Fruit Extract,
Ficus Carica (Fig无花果) Fruit Extract,
Malpighia Emarginata (Acerola针叶樱桃) Seed Extract,
Furcellaria Lumbricalis （red seaweed) Extract,
Rhododendron Ferrugineum （alpenrose高山玫瑰杜鹃）Extract,
Arbutus Unedo （strawberry草莓）Fruit Extract,
Lapsana Communis （nipplewort菊科的开花植物）Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Chemical characteristics: A variety of plant extracts
Function: - Commonly these extracts contain secondary metabolites that have an antioxidant effect.
Sodium Benzoate
Chemical characteristics: A salt of benzoic acid, found naturally in cranberries, prunes, plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples
Function:
- A preservative
Potassium Sorbate
Chemical characteristics: A potassium salt of sorbic acid
Functions:
- A mild preservative, a naturally occurring antimicrobial compound
Sorbic Acid
Chemical characteristics: It's a straight-chained monocarboxylic acid
Function:
- A preservative
Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin
Chemical characteristics: A mixture of inorganic salts derived from seawater.
Functions:
- Abrasive agent/scrubing agent
- Skin-conditioning agent/humectant
Ci 14700/Red 4. [V3148a]
Chemical characteristics: A synthetic red dye produced from petroleum, FDA-approved for use in food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
Functions:
- Colorant
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