Understanding the ingredients in Muji 'Sensitive skin all in one essence'

It is my first time trying Muji sensitive skin all-in-one essence, attracted mainly by its transparent, simple packaging. As stated in the product labelling, it is suitable for sensitive and combination skin type. It doesn't feel heavy after applying but leaving a thin, soft film on the skin (which is the moisturising feel). After a long day leave-on applied on the skin, my skin is still feeling a lightly moisturised layer and did not overly produce oil. This is therefore very suitable for combination skin especially for those living in a tropical country.

The product has three natural herb extracts, i.e. olive fruit oil, purslane extract, and pomelo seed extract. These extracts are either edible or proved not having an irritating effect on human skin. The product, however, does not possess any herbal/fragrance scent and I am happy about it.

Price: RM49.90 for 100 ml
The product is kind of meeting price expectations for the general public, especially those of a younger age. On the other hand, it has a relatively minimal amount of the essential oil/extracts (which is always overly floated in most premium skincare products, abide by their premium price too). It suits the brand identity of Muji and targets minimalist ethos.

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Ingredients:

Water, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, PEG-32, Pentylene glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) fruit oil,

Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Glycosyl trehalose, Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, Polyquaternium-51, Portulaca oleracea (Purslane 马齿苋) extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Citrus grandis (Pomelo) fruit seed extract, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acylloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Potassium hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

Cosmetic products are required to disclose their ingredients in the order of the highest to the lowest concentration. Among the ingredients, only phenoxyethanol is stated as one of the restricted ingredients that up to 1% of this preservative is allowed in a single cosmetic product (references to notices by Ministry of Health and Welfare (Japan), CIR (US), as well as European Union Regulation). Other ingredients are listed as safe and non-toxic.

Categories based on the functions:

Details of the ingredients (highlighted are the star ingredients that worth to have in a skincare moisturiser, in my point of view):

Butylene glycol

Chemical characteristics: Glycol is a type of alcohol that contains two OH-group, the alcohol groups are attached to different carbons. BG contains 4 carbon atoms and is often made from distilled corn.

Functions:

- Acts as a conditioning agent (also called as humectant/moisturizer), i.e. add a layer of softness or improve texture to the skin/hair 

- Also works as a solvent to form a homogenous mixture, makes other ingredients less likely to stick together, giving skin-care spread out in their desired state for use

- Acts as a viscosity-decreasing agent

Glycerin

Chemical characteristics: Also a type of glycerol, is a natural compound derived from vegetable oils or animal fats, or made synthetically.

Function:

- A humectant, moisturizing agent. Glycerin has the ability to draw moisture from the air around us and help to keep that moisture in the skin (the meaning of "humectant"). What's more, glycerin is also involved in the transport of aquaporins (from our lower skin) to skin's uppermost layer.

PEG-32

Chemical characteristics:

Function:

- As an emulsifier, which to keep unlike substances (oil and water) from separating.

Pentylene glycol

Chemical characteristics: Made synthetically, a glycol contains 5 carbons

Function:

- A humectant (a skin conditioning agent)

Olea Europaea (Olive) fruit oil

Chemical characteristics: Oil obtained from the ripe fruit of Olive, yes, it is the same source of Olive cooking oil

Function: 

- Rich in vitamins A and E, also has an anti-inflammatory effect

- A moisturiser, penetrate the skin and prevent loss of moisture

Dimethicone

Chemical characteristics: a silicon-based polymer

Functions:

- Anti-foaming agent

- A conditioning agent, prevent water loss by forming a barrier on the skin and easily spread on the skin

Ethylhexyl palmitate

Chemical characteristics: Mixture of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol) and palmitic acid. 2-ethylhexyl alcohol is a fragrance obtained from plants or synthetically produced. Palmitic acid, a major component of palm oil.

Functions:

- An emollient, helps to keep the skin moist and supple by reducing water loss from the epidermis. However, Ethylhexyl palmitate does not form a film on the surface of the skin, thus, it provides a dry-slip, silky feel that is very similar to how a silicone would feel

- A texture enhancer

- A solvent, helps to dissolve other ingredients

- A fragrance fixative, which is used to equalize the vapor pressures, and thus the volatilities, of the raw materials in a perfume oil. In other words, fragrance fixatives increase the tenacity which is the lasting effect of perfume or scent.

Glycosyl trehalose

Chemical characteristics: trehalose is a sugar found in plants, fungi, and invertebrate animals

Function:

- Rehydrating and water binding properties, through forming a gel phase on the cell, which prevent disruption of internal cell organelles by effectively splinting them in position. Thus, normal cellular activity is allowed without causing dehydration/rehydration cycle.

- Antioxidant power

- Form linkage with glucosyltransferase in reducing end side of hydrolyzed starch

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate

Chemical characteristics: it is an end product of hydrolyzing starch (normally from corn), a polysaccharide carbohydrate.

Function:

- A hydrator and film-forming agent, it is capable of absorbing moisture from the air and retain it

Polyquaternium-51

Chemical characteristics: A phospholipid copolymer

Function:

- A skin conditioning agent (also humectant), originally developed for the contact lens industry to maintain moisture and counteract dry eye. However, it is now an ingredient used by cosmetic and skincare products. It improves the moisture retention capability of the epidermis and also serves as a natural barrier against further water loss from the skin

- Film-forming agent, forming a protective film on the epidermis

Portulaca oleracea (Purslane 马齿苋) extract

Chemical characteristics: Purslane is a succulent plant widely distributed in temperate and tropical regions. 

Functions:

- Beneficial to allergic skin. Rich in catecholamines such as L-metyhl-adrenalin and dopamine, which have anti-allergic property. 

- Antioxidant such as vitamins A, B1, B2, and C

- Rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which is an anti-inflammatory ingredient for human skin

Sodium hyaluronate

Chemical characteristics: A salt form of hyaluronic acid (HA), it has a lower molecular than HA, so it is easier to be absorbed into pores. Also more stable and less susceptible to oxidation.

Function:

- Able to penetrate into deeper layers of the skin, and also attracts and binds water, thus provide skin-pumping effect and reduce the look of wrinkles

Citrus grandis (grapefruit) fruit seed extract

Chemical characteristics: also known as Pomelo, the extract is 60% grapefruit seed extract and 40% USP vegetable glycerin

Function:

- Rich in vitamin C, antioxidant

- A mild preservative in a skin-care product

Squalane

Chemical characteristics: A saturated form of squalene (with double bonds and thus unsaturated), our skin can absorb better with the saturated oil. This form also helps the oil to increase its shelf life. 

Squalane is produced from the hydrogenation of a natural lipid, squalene (unsaturated oil, which produced by our skin and can obtain from olives, rice bran, and sugarcane, even shark livers)

Function:

- Boosting hydration on the skin.

- Antioxidants

- Boost collagen production, resulting in firmer skin

- Good for acne-prone skin as squalane won't clog the pores (which won't trigger a breakout) or worsen blemishes

-  Anti-inflammatory, can reduce redness and swelling

Polysorbate 60

Chemical characteristics: one of the general-purpose hydrophilic, nonionic surfactants, consisting of sorbitol, ethylene oxide and stearic acid (vegetable oil)

Function:

- Emulsifying agent, enables water and oil to mix

- Surfactant, works by lowering the surface tension between two substances (e.g. two liquids or a liquid or a solid). Its characteristics containing hydrophilic end and lipophilic end allows it to attract and suspend oils, dirt, and other impurities that have accumulated on the skin and wash them away

- Act as solubilized and stabilizer of essential oils

Acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Chemical characteristics: Co-polymer of several ingredients, i.e. C10-30 acrylate combined with monomers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid

Functions:

- A thickening agent upon addition to an aqueous system, the molecules ionize and expand due to charge repulsion, and provide suspending and thickening properties

- A texture enhancer, giving a smooth, glossy appearance as week as giving a cushiony feel in applications (to enhance the tactile experience in use)

- A film-forming agent, 

- An emulsifier

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acylloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Chemical characteristics: A copolymer of sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers

Functions:

- An emulsifier/stabilizer

- A thickener

- An electrolyte resistance in the pH range 3-12, useful to thicken up low-pH formulas, such as exfoliants

Potassium hydroxide

Chemical characteristics: Alkaline

Function:

- To modulate the pH of a product

Phenoxyethanol

Chemical characteristics: A glycol ether

Function:

- A preservative

Safety:

- The European Commission on Health and Food Safety gives this chemical a "safe" rating when used in cosmetics at a 1% or less concentration

-  Possible risks are skin irritation and allergies. To an infant, exposure to phenoxyethanol is thought to cause central nervous system damage but there is no known evidence.